THE RIGHT CUT FOR THE SHIRT - HOW TO FIND THE PERFECT FIT
HOW DO I FIND MY MATCHING SHIRT SIZE?
Before a new shirt rejuvenates your wardrobe and you start to measure yourself like crazy, newcomers in particular should first find out about the required cut. And that's not so easy, because the names of the cuts are not always standardized by the manufacturers. That's why we want to bring some order to the variety of shirt cuts offered in the following.
The right cut for every body type: Which shirt cut suits me?
Before a new shirt rejuvenates your wardrobe and you start to measure yourself like crazy, newcomers in particular should first of all find out about the required cut. And that's not so easy, since the names of the cuts are not always uniformly designated by the manufacturers. That's why we want to bring some order to the variety of shirt cuts offered in the following.
If you don't know your cut yet, you should first take a quick look at yourself in the mirror. Do you have a slim, sporty figure without problem zones? Then the waisted cuts, which emphasize the figure, are very suitable. Is your body stronger built and needs freedom of movement in the shirt? Then you should go for the straight cuts of the manufacturers. For the golden mean, i.e. the normal figure, shirts with a slightly waisted cut are best suited.
With this self-reflection in mind, the manufacturers' cuts can be divided into the following groups:
The strongly waisted cut
Shirts in the cut form "Super Slim" are especially suitable for the very slim, sporty man. They fit closely to the body and have an extremely slim cut. But not every manufacturer offers this relatively young cut. However, Eterna has been offering its customers Super Slim shirts in the collection of the same name since 2016, OLYMP is following suit with its "No. Six" series.
At Seidensticker, the cut has also been marketed under the collection name "X-Slim" since 2016, ETON gives its very fitted shirts the name "Super Slim Fit". If you choose this cut, you should also be sure to choose a narrow, figure-hugging line for your jeans or suit. Look yourself in the eye - if you have problem areas that you want to conceal rather than emphasize, the Super Slim collections will fall out of the race for you.
The waisted cut
Waisted shirts called "Slim Fit" are ideal for athletic men without stomach. The shirts can also be worn well with a somewhat stronger upper body, but are especially suitable for slim men, as they also fit tightly to the body and emphasize the figure. The "Slim Fit" collections by Eterna, Seidensticker, Joop, Eton and van Laack fall into the category of tailored cuts. In Jacques Britt's case, the waisted cut runs under the same name in the Blue Label collection.
At OLYMP the cut is called "Body Fit" and is used in the Level Five collection. The shirts at Marvelis are also called "Body Fit". Pure offers fitted shirts in two different cuts. "Pure Body Fit" has a strongly waisted cut, the "Pure Slim Fit" cut is a bit wider, but still waisted.
Der leicht taillierte Schnitt
Leicht taillierte Hemden werden häufig als “Modern Fit” bezeichnet und eignen sich am besten für Männer mit normaler Figur. Die leichte Taillierung unterstützt eine sportliche Silhouette, verzeiht aber auch einen kleinen Bauchansatz, da die Hemden im Gegensatz zu den taillierten weniger eng anliegen. Dadurch erfolgt die Betonung der Taille nur dezent oder entfällt komplett. Als “Modern Fit”-Hemden werden diese bei den Herstellern OLYMP, Eterna, Seidensticker, Casa Moda, Marvelis, Joop und Venti angeboten.
Aber keine Regel ohne Ausnahme. Bei Eton wird der leicht taillierte Schnitt unter der Bezeichnung “Contemporary Fit” geführt, bei Van Laack unter “Tailor Fit” und bei pure unter “Fashion Fit”. Zudem bietet Seidensticker mit dem “Tailor Schnitt” einen leicht taillierten Schnitt an, der etwas schmaler geschnitten ist als der Seidensticker “Modern Fit”-Schnitt, aber doch deutlich weiter als die Seidensticker “Slim Fit”-Hemden.
The straight cut
Straight cut shirts, which are often referred to as "Comfort Fit", are particularly suitable for strong men who need freedom of movement in the shirt. The sizes of these shirts often go up to collar size 54, which internationally corresponds to size 6XL.
Especially the integrated fabric reserves on the back and the generous cut ensure the necessary wearing comfort with the "Comfort Fit" shirts, which you can find in the assortment of the manufacturers OLYMP, Seidensticker, Eterna, Marvelis, Casa Moda, Venti and Van Laack. At ETON, the straight cut is under "Classic Fit", although this is a relatively narrow cut. Likewise the Brown Label "Custom Fit" shirts by Jacques Britt. At Hatico the straight cut is called "Regular Fit".